
On the banks of the Agout, in the Tarn department in Occitanie, Lavaur is a small brick town of about 11,000 inhabitants, east-north-east of Toulouse. Visitors come for its Saint-Alain cathedral, its jacquemart (clock automaton) and its history linked to the Albigensian Crusade.
It makes a pleasant stop for a day or a weekend, and a good base for exploring the Tarn, between Toulouse, Albi and Castres.
Saint-Alain cathedral dominates the town centre. Built in brick in the southern Gothic style, it was begun in 1255, after the Romanesque church was destroyed during the siege of 1211. Its 42-metre bell tower dates from the late 15th century. It has been a listed historic monument since 1911. Inside, look out for a Cavaillé-Coll organ and a pietà.
On the south side of the cathedral, a small tower houses the famous jacquemart: an automaton that strikes the hours on a bell. The mechanism and the bell date from 1523, and the automaton has been in place since the early 17th century. Legend has it that a prisoner built it to ring the hours for him so that he could escape.
Right next to the cathedral, the Jardin de l’Évêché, the former bishops’ garden, is a quiet place for a stroll, with views of the Agout.
Saint-François church, the former 13th-century church of the Franciscan friars, is also a listed monument. In the old town, wander among the brick façades, the Tour des Rondes (a remnant of the ramparts) and the old grain hall.
During the Albigensian Crusade, Lavaur was besieged by Simon de Montfort and taken on 3 May 1211, after a siege of more than a month. The repression was terrible: the lady of Lavaur, Guiraude, was thrown into a well and many Cathars were burned. This episode deeply marked the history of the town and the region.
The centre is easy to explore on foot, with its shopping streets, cafés and squares. The banks of the Agout and the surrounding hills are ideal for walks or bike rides. In summer, events and a night market bring the town to life.
About an hour’s drive away, Albi and its episcopal city are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t miss Sainte-Cécile cathedral and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum in the Palais de la Berbie.
North of Lavaur, Gaillac is at the heart of one of the oldest wine regions in France. You can visit wine estates and the Saint-Michel abbey on the banks of the Tarn.
Less than an hour away, Toulouse, the Pink City, offers the Place du Capitole, the Basilica of Saint-Sernin and the banks of the Garonne.
A little further on, the hilltop village of Cordes-sur-Ciel is one of the most famous in the Tarn, with its Gothic houses and cobbled lanes.
In the Tarn department, in Occitanie, on the Agout river, east-north-east of Toulouse.
Saint-Alain cathedral, its jacquemart, the Jardin de l’Évêché and Saint-François church.
About 11,000 (10,965 in 2023, according to INSEE).
Yes, Saint-Alain cathedral is open to visitors. Ask the tourist office for opening times.
To plan your visit, see the Tarn Tourisme website.

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